Adventure Andrew's trip facts
Usefull info for other overlanders

TURKEY (April 2007)
?? (from Greece)
Akacale (to Syria)
ENTRY COSTS: 3rd Party Insurance: €45 (1 week)
MONEY CHANGE: - banks at borders: good rates
TOTAL ENTRY TIME: approx 1.5hr
NOTES: Carnet does not seem to be used. Stamp in passport to show that car has been brought into country.
FUEL PRICE (litre) - Diesel: US$1.50 (YTL 2.25)

SYRIA (April 2007)
ENTRY COSTS: - Diesel Tax: US$100 (PER WEEK!!)
- 3rd Party Insurance: US$36 (1 week)
- misc entry tax: US$8
MONEY CHANGE: - Xchange/bank at all borders - good rates
ENTRY TIME: approx 2hr
NOTES: Theoretically, you must pay a 2nd week's diesel tax on your 8th day in the country. Some overlanders got away with only paying for 1 week though. Nobody checked our car to see it WAS a diesel, but they might if you say it's a petrol...("Kerosene" locally)
FUEL PRICE (litre) - Diesel: US$0.14 (SŁ7)
Alleppo a bit mad - Souks good. Stayed at Hotel Al Gawaher.

Large underground parking lot (behind Sheraton):
GPS: N36°12.125 / E037°09.225

Qal'aat Samaan Good - quiet, atmospheric & great views around.
GPS: N36° 19.926 / E036° 50.660
Serjilla Interesting - many similar sites around are free.
Palmyra Don't miss. Highlight of trip. Can camp anywhere, but below citadel walls (South Side) is rustic sheltered campsite with great food & swimming pool. Al Baider. (SŁ100pp):
GPS: N34°32.450 / E038°16.275
Damascus Hotel Al-Rabie has great leafy courtyard to relax (book if possible). Can park outside, but can only get there at night, after cars leave.
GPS: N33°30.540 / E036°17.540 (?)

Landrover : Mouhammed Al Raiyes Centre - on East side of motorway north to Alleppo, approx 5-8km from centre?

JORDAN (April 2007)
(Jerash?) (from Syria)
Aqaba (Ferry to Egypt)
ENTRY COSTS: - Visa on border: JD10 (US$14)
- Customs fee: JD15 (US$22)
- 3rd Party Insurance: JD20 (US$29) (1 week)
EXIT COSTS: - Departure tax: JD5 (US$7pp)
- Departure tax vehicle: JD5 (US$7)
MONEY CHANGE: - At customs on Syria border: good rate
- xchanger at Aqaba Ferry terminal: good rates
- On board Ferry: slightly lower rate
TIME REQUIRED: approx 2hr
NOTES: Aqaba to Nuweiba Ferry:
(Mid)Night - Slow 3.5hr: US$35pp + US$190 car
(Mid)Day - Fast 1hr: US$45pp + US$210 car
FUEL PRICE (litre) - Diesel: JD320 (US$0.45)
Jerash Looks interesting, but skipped as Palmyra was fantasic.
Dead Sea Nowhere to camp around here. Militarised area, and very barren. Visit beach for 1hr and leave!
Amman Nice enough city, but could skip. Stayed at Sydney Hostel (JD18 double). Parking in front. GPS:N31° 57.071 / E035° 55.710
Dana Village Unexpected find: Stayed at wonderful Dana Hotel (JD12 double). Be there for sunset!! Spent a day walking in Nature Reserve. Highly recc!!
GPS: N30°40.500 / E035°36.610 (?)
Petra Day visit only between Dana and Wadi Rum. No more time needed.
Wadi Rum Impressive desert scenery. Cheap enough as a "free camp" alone. (JD2pp + JD10car). Others used an "alternative exit" at the SW restricted corner of their printed map. Don't get bogged.

EGPYT (May 2007)
Nuweiba (ferry from Jordan)
Aswan (ferry to Sudan)
ENTRY COSTS: - creating files with copies: EŁ30 (US$5.20)
- Customs tax EŁ505 (US$89)
- 3rd Party Insurance EŁ80 (US$14) (1 month)
- Traffic police something EŁ10.50 (US$2)
- Temporary licence plates EŁ100 (US$17)
- tip to "guide" EŁ30 (US$6) - optional.
MONEY CHANGE: - banks at Nuweiba Customs offices: good rate JD/US$
TIME REQUIRED: approx 2.5hrs (Egypt entry)
NOTES: The dreaded entry went very smoothly. Ashraf of the Tourist Police walked us through the system very quickly and smoothly. Gave him a tip (not required) - a cold drink would have sufficed.

See below for info on the Aswan to Wadi Halfa ferry!!

FUEL PRICE (litre) Diesel ("Gasoil"): EŁ0,85 (US$0.13)
This ferry is much dreaded by overlanders. And for good reason. Expensive, overcrowded and hot, it is an uncomfortable crossing. In addition you are away from your "home" - your car - as it will travel seperately on a barge:

Unless you are the only car making this crossing, the chances are that you will be convinced by Mr Salah that there is no space on the barge for your car. After you have seen the Barge, you will understand why. Going South - the Barge is piled high with every manner of stuff you can imagine. Once there are 3 or 4 cars Mr Salah will convince you to hire a "private barge".

The official cost seems to be EŁ19,200 - US$4000. It SEEMS like any space left over can be sold by you to anybody else using the barge. FORGET IT! You are simply subsidising the Nile Navigation Co's extra cargo capacity for that week's crossing. They will pile that barge so high with stuff you might never see your cars again!! Also - you are NOT going to be allowed to stay on board. Well as we were only 4 cars, taking up less than 1/2 the space - we negotiated a 30% discount, thus paid EŁ3400 each. This is still higher than the usual EŁ2460, but what can you do. There is little doubt that the Egyptians simply use the tourists as cash cows, but you have no choice but to accept it. Mr Salah seems to have a permanent smirk on his face. We did not like him.

The barge may leave the day before the ferry, but also might leave on the same day. If it leaves the day before, you have an advantage: You can load the cars last, so that you can get off the barge first. (we spent nearly 2 days waiting for the barge to be unloaded in Wadi Halfa).

If the barge is loaded on the same day as the ferry, if possible, get somebody onto the ferry ASAP to hold seats while you are waiting to load the car. Now there is the ferry itself:

The ferry runs South from Aswan on Mondays, and North from W.Halfa on Wednesdays. It generally only leaves in the evening after boarding starts at about 9am!! Heading South - every single inch of space on the deck will be taken by boxes and bags and people. A 1st class cabin is HIGHLY RECCOMMENDED! They are often booked up a week or more in advance. If you don't get one, try when you arrive, as some are block booked, and sometimes not used. Bakshish might help here...

** Another option I recently heard was that Dragoman (the overland tour co.) hire a barge every few weeks, and rent out the extra space. Contact them to check their dates.

"Seats" are EŁ260pp. Unless you are on the ferry by about 11am, most seats and deck space will have been taken. Forget "airline seats" - they are wooden benches. If you get a spot on a downstairs seat, you will have to sleep there. If you get a spot on deck - you will have to put up with high temps all day until sunset, but you will have a space to lie down.

Heading North the ferry is empty of boxes and bags, so the trip is far easier. You may even be allowed to take the barge which leaves on Wednesday or Thursday.

Although Wadi Halfa is basic, after the ferry - you will enjoy sitting outside your hotel watching the people go by...

Hope this helps your trip.

Liala Hostel
Pleasantly suprised after much apprehension. We stayed downtown at this Hostal. Ask for room 303 - LOVE the view of the insane traffic below from your sumptious room with balcony. (EŁ80-120 double).

Parking Area: 200m from Museum, off roundabout Midan Talaat Harb: N30°02.798 E031°14.163

Salma Motel
A very basic camping alternative in Giza, no shade. Taxi to downtown approx EŁ50.
Rezeiky camp
N 25°42.69
There is no alternative for overlanders. Shady trees, grass, a SWIMMING POOL, friendly owner, internet cafe & rooms.
Adams Home
N24° 10.161
This "camp" is 15km North of Aswan (on opp bank). Friendly staff & decent shower+toilet. Unfortunately the camping area is simply a parking area in front of the road without shade. However after spending the day in Aswan, it is a quiet place to spend the night. No camping in Aswan. Don't pay more than EŁ25per car!!
Sudan Consulate
The application for the dreaded Sudanese visa: We and others we spoke to were all issued this visa in 1 hr. Cost: US$100 (!!). But you MUST have a letter of introduction from your own embassy (preferably in Cairo).
Ethiopia Consulate
This Consulate has changed address 3 times recently.
As of 10 May 2007, they are at:
21 Mohamed Ghazly St,
from Mosadak St,
tel: 3353 693/6
Visas issued in 24hrs normally. US$30. Ask nicely and you could have it by lunch...

SUDAN (May 2007)
Wadi Halfa (ferry from Aswan)
Galabat (to Ethiopia)
ENTRY COSTS: A guy called Magdi found us on the ferry. He is one of several guys who will walk you through the immigration and customs process. It was easier in the extreme heat to relax while he spent the day at the customs doing the paperwork. TAKE YOUR CARNET on the ferry with you!! We paid:
- US$20 for the car (depends on car's weight)
- US$15 for Magdi's service (each of 4 cars)
- US$34 for foreigner registration (each).
MONEY CHANGE: - On ferry (not bad rate - but money not needed.)
- At our hotel in Wadi Halfa
TIME REQUIRED: Approx 1 day (Sudan entry)
NOTES: Passports are taken on the ferry. You might then be interviewed after arriving in Wadi Halfa, aboard the ferry. You will receive your passports back at the immigration office.

Magdi did all the paperwork with our Carnets while we waited in Wadi Halfa. Barges with cars only arrived 1 day after us. We waited for nearly 2 days for the barges to be unloaded.

We had to have all our passport details copied down in 3 different places on exit before getting our stamp.

EXCHANGE RATE: US$1 = SŁ2.00 (=200 Old Dinar)
FUEL PRICE (litre) Diesel: SŁ1.00-1.15 (US$0.50-0.58)
Wadi Halfa
Defintoad Hotel
This hotel and the Blue Nile a block along are about the only in town. Super-basic, but friendly staff
N21°48.033 / E031°20.929
Blue Nile Sailing Club
After all the hype, we enjoyed the place. Their are several trees around the parking area under which you can camp. Evenings can be spend sitting by the river. Toilets are not great, but we've seen worse. One shower in men's bathroom. There are plenty of shady spots during the day. Also this place is very central. It can be noisy in the evenings as people leave the club. Cost US$11 (2 people)
N15°36.420 / E032°32.040
National Camping Residence
On the road south. It has good facilities and shade. Noisy at night (near main road)
N15°31.260 / E032°34.130
Afra supermarket
Big supermarket & shopping centre. Expensive.
N15°33.581 / E032°33.254
Ethiopia Consul
Visas issued same day.
Kenya Consulate
Visas issued on the spot. US$50
Note that all visas are issued at the Moyale border anyway. But if you plan to cross the border from the Omo valley, you need to arrange this visa ahead.
N15°35.400 / E032°34.927
Wadi Halfa Dongola: 24hrs
Approx 450km, varying road conditions from sand to bad corrugations. Great free camps.
Dongola Abu Dom: 4hrs
Road currently under construction. Patches of tar, then detours.
Abu Dom Khartoum: 5hrs
Perfect new tar all the way to city.
Khartoum Meroe Pyramids: 3hrs
Good tar.
Khartoum Galabat: 11hrs
Tar all the way. Road busy to Gedaref.

ETHIOPIA (June 2007)
Metema(Gonder - from Sudan)
Omorate (to Kenya)
ENTRY COSTS: - nothing at all. Your Comesa Yellow Card should cover you to SA from here.
MONEY CHANGE: - At border (TERRIBLE rate)
- At bank at Shenedi open to 4pm. (customs town 36km from border)
- In Gonder at banks
TIME REQUIRED: Approx 30mins immigration + 30mins customs
NOTES: ENTERING: Immigration is a small building on border. Customs is 36km further at Shenedi, on RHS on way out of town. Large sign. I suggest you DON'T get your Carnet stamped unless you are SURE you will leave at Moyale. (Carnet is not required in Ethiopia - they only stamp it for you.
EXITING:If you leave via the Omo valley (Omorate) there is no exit Customs, so you will have to get your Carnet stamped out in Addis Ababa (see below).
EXCHANGE RATE: US$1 = 8.98 Birr
FUEL PRICE (litre) Diesel: 5.20 Birr (US$0.58)
Belegez Pension
Nice central place with small courtyard in which to park. Can camp (40B) or room (80B).
Bahir Dar
Ghion Hotel
This is really a good place to stop and chill for a few days. We camped in their shady back garden for 3 days, and never ate anywhere but the hotel premises... The restaurant was really good and cheap and is situated in a beautifull garden, overlooking the lake.
7 Olives Hotel
The only thing I can say about this place is that it IS possible to camp in their parking area, but it was not pleasant. Loud music all night, expensive and not really secure. We negotiated 50Birr. Try somewhere else.
Buffet de Aouache
This hard-to find place is at the railway station, about 300m off the main road. It is signed. Secure parking. Clean, rooms and toilets. Good, shady, relaxing restaurant/bar after long hot drives in the lowlands. You could spend a day relaxing here.
N08°59.385 / E040°10.136
Addis Ababa
Baro Hotel
Popular spot for overlanders. Small courtyard, pleasant atmosphere. Rooms a bit grubby. 30Birr pppn camping. Could try Taitu around the corner, but seems less secure.
Addis Ababa
Customs Authority
Behind the Red cross building. Room 104. Guy only seems to be there in the afternoons around 3.30pm.
N09°00.901 / E038°45.241
Addis Ababa
Kenya Embassy
Kenya flag on gate & sign "Karibu". Nothing says "Kenya"!! Visa's 24hrs. Only single entry. If you need a Kenyan visa, get it before crossing via Omo valley - no visa's available on entry. All other visas issued at Moyale border.
N09°01.970 / E038°47.000
Camp in Jana's backyard. Good showers/toilets. Great place to relax and catch up a bit. The comments book is crammed with usefull info for your onward journey!! Jana's cooking is excellent!
co-ords coming!!
Arba Minch
Bekele Mola Hotel
A great hill-top location, good restaurant and the best place to enjoy a beer after a long day.
Rocky Campsite
This campsite could be in Europe! With terraced steps for camping, sculpted hedges and ample shade. 3km before town - if you walk in you might avoid paying the 100Birr town fee.
There are 2 camps on the way out into town from Weito: One really nice about 3km before, and one at the riverbed 1km before.
Omorate Most people stay behind the police station (free but can be noisy), but a free camp on the road to Kenya looks far better. Don't bother visiting Omorate unless you are going to Kenya.
Gedaref Gonder: 6hrs
Rough gravel. Mountainous. Pretty.
Gonder Lalibela: 8hrs
Rough gravel. Under construction (for a long time still).
Lalibela Desea: 11hrs
Under construction. Existing road in bad condition. Detours every 300m.
Desea Addis Ababa: 14hrs
Under construction. Existing road in bad condition. Detours every 300m.
Desea Awash: 9hrs
Gravel eastward to Djibouti road. Then new tar south. Numerous free camps
Addis Ababa Awasa: 4hrs
Good tar.
Awasa Arba Minch: 6hrs
Mostly good tar. Some gravel and potholed road.
Arba Minch Jinka: 10hrs
Both good and bad dirt road. Pretty drive
Jinka Turmi: 5hrs
Muddy track. Great for overlanding!! Lots of colourful locals. Easy way is via Weyto.
Turmi Omorate: 2hrs
1/2 good gravel, 1/2 rough dirt.
Omorate Border: 3hrs
Great track through bush. Crossing numerous wide riverbeds. Wet season not recc!!

After you cross the Equator just North of Nairobi, your trip will become a lot easier: you will be following a well-driven trail between popular destinations. You will see lots more other "overlanders" - mainly holidaying South Africans. You will have a number of good campsites to choose from and more people to exchange into with. For this reason I eventually stop using GPS co-ords from here onward.

KENYA (June 2007)
Ileret (from Omorate, Ethiopia)
Namanga (to Arusha, Tanzania)
NOTE: Border between Masai & Serengeti is CLOSED!
ENTRY COSTS: - We paid nothing on entry (no border)
- Your Comesa Yellow card should cover you from here. Cheap in Nairobi if you don't have one. Asked once.
- Some people have paid US$60 "road tax" at Moyale - mmmmm?
EXIT COSTS: - When leaving the customs official said I should have had a stamp or sticker for road tax. He said it would cost me US$40. Saw my carnet stamp date was in Nairobi only 6days before, so let me off for less than 7 days. However it seems perhaps I should have paid on entry (see above). Perhaps getting your carnet stamped late deliberately might help, although a slightly dodgy practise, which might not always work.
MONEY CHANGE: - At Omorate (?? rate)
- At bank in Marsabit. (4% lower rate)
TIME REQUIRED: none at border - 2hrs Nairobi
NOTES: We used the Omo valley border, generally only possible in dry season (Jun - Sep?). Kenya has no border there but is used to overlanders doing this it seems. You should register at police post at Ileret.
Get your immigration stamp in Nairobi no cost, no problem - can even get extension to 3 months same time.
Can get carnet stamped on 10th floor, Times Tower. Often try send you to airport, but they CAN do it. Girls with smiles get better results.
EXCHANGE RATE: US$1 = 66Shillings
FUEL PRICE (litre) Diesel: 68-81 Birr (US$1.02-US$1.15)
Henry "the Swiss"
Henry has built a little piece of paradise behind his farmhouse. His wife runs a bakery that will wake you up at 7am drooling. Excellent shower & a place to relax. Camping 300Kshpp. He even has a cottage (400Kshpp).
N02°20.748 / E37°57.944
Run by a Dutch couple - Peter&Rita. Place to camp, swimming pool, good restaurant & sunset drinks on the lawn.
N00°21.672 / E037°36.226
Fisherman's camp
Popular overlander spot. Large grounds, warm showers, expensive restaurant/bar. Hippos come out at night and munch. Camp by the electric fence. Drive around lake for numerous Giraffe near crater reserve.
Jungle Junction
Everybody knows it. Meet other overlanders, get technical help + advice etc... you might stay too long.
S01°17.325 / E036°45.635
Southern entrance of bld. Can park in large P lot on North side.
S01°17.247 / E036°49.086
10th floor - Times Tower (the tall smart one). Can walk from Imm. Don't let them send you to airport: girls flirt or guys beg!!
S01°17.456 / E036°49.444
Border Ileret: 2hrs
Great track through bush.
Ileret N.Horr: 12hrs
Avoiding N.P. - rough track, then 150km of lava. VERY bad & slow. Rear diff-guard regularly scraping centre of track. Hard on tyres. Some mud. (Alternative is US$40pp through N.P.)
N.Horr Marsabit: 7hrs
Great driving on tracks over gravel fields, soft sand & salt pans. Good free camps.
Marsabit Isiolo: 7hrs
Corrugations, corrugations, corrugations...

TANZANIA (July 2007)
Namanga (from Nairobi, Kenya)
Mbeya (to Malawi)
ENTRY COSTS: - US$5+20 for entry Customs (2 weeks)
- Your Comesa Yellow card should cover you for here, but nobody asks
MONEY CHANGE: - At border (?? rate)
- At cambio (will take Kshl at good rate)
TIME REQUIRED: 40mins each side - quick and easy
EXCHANGE RATE: US$1 = 1230Shillings (1250 large bills)
FUEL PRICE (litre) Diesel: 1400 (US$1.13)
Masai Camp
Popular place out of town. Noisy bar and restaurant until late. Nothing special. US$5pppn. S03°23.100 / E036°43.210
Peponi Beach Resort
Perfect spot by the sea. The secluded beach resort you always dream about. Camp under palms right to the sand. Buy prawns + fish by the kilo. Good restaurant + bar. Basic shop + email next door. Miss this at your own peril. Reccomended: take tiny track down from Tanga main road at Pongwe - S05°07.464 / E038°58.587, then right at "T"
Peponi Resort: S05°17.172 / E039°03.762
Kisolanza - Old Farm House
Relaxed campsite 40km West of Iringa. Good restaurant. Hot showers. US$4pppn. Good place to break journey South. S08°08.460 / E035°24.461
(top of lake Malawi)
- Matema Resort
Jerome at Old Farm House told us this could be a good mid-way stop going to Malawi. It turned out to be a 50km long detour down narrow tracks through numerous pretty villages & plantations. We were wondering what we were doing until we arrived. Perfect first sight of Lake Malawi! A well-kept, very peacefull spot. Camp on clean sand just behind some rooms. US$2pppn S09°29.952 / E034°00.981

MALAWI (July 2007)
Karonga (from Mbeya, Tz)
Mchinji (to Zambia)
- Your Comesa Yellow card will cover you, but nobody asked at border.
MONEY CHANGE: - At border: numerous touts. Ignore everything they say - you will NOT need Kwacha for entry!!
- At Karonga (visa ATM)
- In major towns: Mastercard ATM's (Stanbic)
TIME REQUIRED: 30mins each side - quick and easy
EXCHANGE RATE: US$1 = 140Kwacha
FUEL PRICE (litre) Diesel: 155K (US$1.11)
GENERAL We suggest you stock up at excellent People's supermarket Mzuzu before heading south. There are small supermarkets in each town.
Internet is expensive and very difficult to find in Malawi. Numerous power failures.
We suggest approx 3days at Chintheche Inn & 3days at Cool Runnings in Senga Bay.
Nkhata Bay
Njaya Lodge
This appears to be the only place to camp with your rooftent in Nkhata Bay. A pleasant terraced lodge, with good facilities & friendly staff. The only downside is that you will camp high above the water, so you could be camping anywhere. US$3pppn - S11°37.228 / E034°18.284
Chintheche Inn
We think this is the best place on the whole lake. An upmarket hotel with a huge campsite. The facilites were excellent. You can camp on the edge of this beautifull beach under shady trees. A very smart, but reasonable restaurant, swimming pool & bar. With a long extension, there are places to plug in your fridge. US$5pppn. Live like royalty!! - S11°52.665 / E034°09.118
Kande Beach
We had heard much about it, but were dissapointed. Would have to camp behind restaurant and bar, away from water, on dirt. Not a place to relax, but party with the overlanding crowds. No power. Only internet in Chintheche here.
Senga Bay
Cool Runnings
Our pick of Senga Bay's spots. Camping US$3pppn. In a grassy, shady garden. Good facilities + restaurant, power available. Fronts onto beach. We highly reccomend taking their sailing catamaran to the island & snorkelling around. Our highlight of Lake Malawi!! Costs only US$15 for 2hrs!!! - S13°43.834 / E034°37.145
Senga Bay
Steps campsite
At the very end of the road behind the Livingstonia Hotel. You can camp right at the beach, but expensive at US$7pppn. All activities more expensive as you are alongside the expensive hotel! The only internet in Senga is at the hotel: $12/hr. - S13°42.94 / E034°37.73

ZAMBIA (Aug 2007)
to Chipata (from Lilongwe, Malawi)
Chirundu (to Zim)
Kazangulu (from Kasani, Botswana)
ENTRY COSTS: - 150,000Kwacha Carbon Tax (dependant vehicle capacity)
    This is valid to year end (ie multiple entry) - Your Comesa Yellow card will cover you.
MONEY CHANGE: - At border: touts - we used them to cover Carbon tax entry.
- Visa ATM in Chipata, Livingstone
- Mastercard ATM's in Lusaka.
TIME REQUIRED: 30mins each side - quick and easy
EXCHANGE RATE: US$1 = 3,500-4,000 Kwacha (dependant on bill size & location)
FUEL PRICE (litre) Diesel: 5,600K (US$1.40)
GENERAL Zambia seems to be the most expensive country in Africa. Although there are many good shops selling anything you need, you will pay for them!
Visa waivers can be arranged by many places. Some charge for the service, some don't.
Mama Rula's
Run by a South African couple, Although we didn't visit - many reccomend it highly!!
South Luangwa N.P.
Croc Village
Run by a South African couple, we liked this the most. A quiet spot overlooking the river. Lots of wildlife in and around. US$5pp.
South Luangwa N.P.
Flat Dogs
Most popular camp outside the park. Lots of overlander cars + trucks. Often no space near river to camp. Better facilities than Croc Village, but expensive!! US$10pp.
Luangwa Bridge
Bridge camp
This is a convenient & popular 1/2-way stop on the way south to Lusaka. Great location for lodge rooms, but campsite is cramped, dusty & expensive. US$8pp
Eurieka camp
Spacious camp on south of town. No access onto grass. Limited shade. Badly located powerpoints if you have a long extension (or park in the sun!). We think we mixed up reccomendations with Pioneer camp on the East of town. Try Pioneer instead. US$5pp
Jolly boys
In town. This is one of the best hostels we have used. Only it is not suited to sleeping on your roof tent (in small parking area, near bar). However it has numerous excellent places to relax. We used our ground tent in the back garden. They arrange visa waivers for US$25, and then you get 3n camping + 2 meals. Internet. US$5pp
Riverside camp
This seems to be the most popular spot for overlanders.Shade, individual BBQ, water + power, but dusty & noisy. Nice pool area + internet. US$8pp
Bush tracks?
On the way to Riverside camp. Much quieter. Can camp on grass with power. Pool at restaurant. US$10pp (neg)
Chipata South Luangwa: 3hrs
This bad road is being improved. Corrugated with some muddy sections.
South Luangwa Petauke: 8hrs
Makes an interesting alternative to returning via Chipata. This is hardly a road, mostly a track. Varies from pretty drive along the park boundary (with much wildlife), through occasional villages, to dull neverending deep grass. A 10km section of the road has some very steep & exposed rocky climbs/descents. Watch out for hidden splits around villages!! Great free camp possibilities on park boundary section. Probably impassible when wet.

ZIMBABWE (Aug 2007)
Chirundu (from Lusaka, Zam)
Kazungulu (to Kasani, Botswana)
ENTRY COSTS: - US$10 - Carbon tax
- US$15 - Customs tax
- Your Comesa Yellow card for insurance. - Carnet not used- temp import permit issued
MONEY CHANGE: - DO NOT CHANGE officially. Official rate is 700 times lower than street value!! Change carefully. Use a hostel or somebody to help you.
EXCHANGE RATE: no point really... it changes too quickly.
FUEL PRICE (litre) Diesel: On black market - approx US$1.50per litre.
GENERAL Will be fun to visit Zimbabwe
About 12km South of town. Almost opposite Mbizi lodge. Follow signs to airport. Veer left at airport entrance. Then left turn about 2km further. Then right turn another 2km further at 4-w stop. Very nice place with grass on which to camp at the back. US$6pp.
Vic Falls
Vic Falls rest camp
Camping on grass, popluar with overlanders, very central. US$8pp

BOTSWANA (Sep 2007)
Kazangulu (from Vic Falls, Zim)
Kazungulu (to Livingstone, Zam)
2nd ENTRY + EXIT: Kazangulu (from Livingstone, Zam)
Mohembo (to Divundu, Nam)
ENTRY COSTS: - 50 Pula - Customs tax? Local currency or SA Rand only!!
- US$20 - ferry at Kazangula
- Insurance: Yellow card perhaps, but nobody asked and nobody sold.
EXCHANGE RATE: approx 1US$ = 6.20Pula
FUEL PRICE (litre) Diesel: P5.10 (US$0.85) per litre
GENERAL NOTE: SA, Botswana and Namibia share a common customs zone, so your Carnet will not be stamped when crossing between these countries!!
Chobe N.P.
Ilala campsite
Wild camp in N.P.
Audi campsite
Excellent toilet block!! Great shady swimming pool. Shadeless, dusty and noisy campsite (near village, dogs...). US$5pp. Elec US$9!
Old Bridge (Back to Bridge) Backpackers
Small place, with shade, some grass. Swimming pool. Really cool outdoor showers. Great atmosphere around bar with communal cooking fire. US$5pp.
Sedia Hotel
Camp in front of this smart hotel. Some shade. Large pool.

NAMIBIA (Sep 2007)
Divundu (from Maun, Bot)
Springfontein (to Andriesvalle, SA)
ENTRY COSTS: - N$160 (US$24) - Customs tax?
- Insurance? Yellow card perhaps, but nobody asked and nobody sold.
EXCHANGE RATE: approx 1US$ = 7N$ (= 7 SA Rand)
FUEL PRICE (litre) Diesel: N$6.85 (US$1.00)
GENERAL NOTE: SA, Botswana and Namibia share a common customs zone, so your Carnet will not be stamped when crossing between these countries, unless you specifically request it!!
Ngepi camp
The famous place with the funky toilets. Croc cage for swimming in Okavango river. Grassy, shady riverside campsites (most). DO NOT MISS. US$10pp
Die Kraal - steakhouse
Some shade and grass for camping. US$8pp.
- Gowati Country Hotel
In town. Lovely grassy sites in smart hotel grounds. Swimming pool!! Several Springbok, Peacocks etc walking around.
- Xaragu camp
This camp is on the C39, at turn-off to Twyfelfontein. Has swimming pool, tame meercats, kudu & some other animals...
- Desert Sky Backpackers
Nice central place with small social kitchen/lounge. Driveway for rooftent a bit exposed, but grass for ground tent is comfy. US$8pp.
- Dunes Lodge Backpackers
Very nice place, but not sure if you will be able to camp.
- Gulls Cry camping
Windy exposed place, grassy but a bit lonely.
Gross Barmen
Hot springs
Lovely 80's style springs with good facilities. Very relaxing stop during week!
public campsite
Our favourite campsites in Namibia. The campsites are individually located around the Spitzkoppe massif, each in sheltered spots around/between boulders. Very clever, very basic (no water).
Cardboard Box
Social spot central in Windhoek. Small carpark for roof tent. Space for ground tents. Swimming pool.
N.P. camping
Overpriced campsite. Exposed when windy. US$15pp.
Haupshfontien camping
50km from Sesriem. Isolated sheltered campsite on farm. Lovely all-year round pools in river. Excellent facilities. US$10pp.
Quivertree Forest Rest Camp
Exposed campsite alongside road. Only attraction is 2 Cheetah in enclosure. Giants Playground is a waste of time. Can see similar balancing rocks from the road. Garas Resort north of town might be better.
Ethosha Entry (24hrs): US$10pp - Camping: US$15pp
Ethosha is a park featuring the big 5. It is based around the large Pan, and most wildlife is spotted at the waterholes. Very often when you phone to reserve a place, you will be told that everything is booked full for weeks ahead.
When you enter the park you are not asked for your reservation, so we simply turned up at Halali camp, just before closing, and feigned ignorance regarding needing a reservation. By then it is too late to kick you out, and there are always a number of places available.

Namutoni Camp: fewest animals seem to be seen at this waterhole

Halali Camp: Probably the best campsite in the park. Excellent waterhole, never a quiet moment.

Okakuejo Camp: Small campsite currently under construction. Great waterhole.

Springfontein (from Keetmanshoop, Nam)
ENTRY COSTS: - The border we used was a non-commercial border, so had no official customs. - 3rd party insurance is included in the cost of fuel.
EXCHANGE RATE: approx 1US$ = R6.90
FUEL PRICE (litre) Diesel: R7.65 (US$1.12) per litre
GENERAL NOTE:SA, Botswana and Namibia share a common customs zone, so your Carnet will not be stamped when crossing between these countries!!

If you are importing your car to South Africa at the end of your trip (ie you are South African) - read my advice about this strenuous activity in my vehicle page.

The Mata Mata border between Namibia and South Africa (ie directly into Transfrontier Park) is now OPEN - since Oct 2007 (all maps show it closed).

As a South-African I feel I should both apologise for, and warn you about the appalling standards of driving in my home country. Since returning I have realised that this is probably the most dangerous country you will drive in.

In much of Africa & the Middle East you will encounter bad driving (mostly due to ignorance). However the difference is that in SA this bad driving is done at higher speed, and far more agressively than anywhere else.
Feel free to join in. The complete lack of enforcement is the reason for its existance.

LOCALS In South Africa, perhaps much of Africa, it is customary to greet a person properly before commencing a conversation. The traditional version is a lengthy enquiry into a persons health and family's health.
Today, just get used to the song:
"Hi, how are you?"
"fine thanks, and you?"
"fine thanks..."
Then you can ask the price/pay the bill/ask directions etc...

GENERAL: We were given a copy of a magazine called "HOLIDAY resorts & destinations" - We HIGHLY reccomend buying this as soon as you arrive in SA. It was invaluable for finding us excellent campsites both in popular & out-of-the-way places.

Kalahari/Transfrontier N.P.
Mata Mata campsite
The best located campsites: they are along a fence facing onto a waterhole. We lay in our tent and watched animals come to drink at night.
Augrabies Falls
Pleasant backpackers 10km before falls.
Augrabies Falls
N.P. camping
Shady green campsites.
Gecko Backpackers
20km North of Citrusdal, set in Orchards. GREEN lawns, pool & welcoming owners. One of our favourite backpackers of the trip.
Cape Town
- my brother's place
Owner may even cook for you! Quiet & personalised. Off-street parking. Highly reccomended!!
Cape Town
I have been told it is extremely difficult to find good campsites here. I did notice that in Noordhoek, about 1km from Chapmans peak is a small and pleasant farm caravan park/campsite. It is a lovely area on the peninsula, only a bit far away from the city.
Garden Route
(Buffalo Bay)
This small spot about 10km West of Kynsna has a wonderfull caravan park directly on the sea. Highly reccomended!
Garden Route
Storms River Mouth
This is an expensive Tsitsikamma N.P. campsite. However the location is unbeatable
St Lucia
Sugarloaf(?) Camp
This is the N.P. campsite at the very end of the road behind the town, wedged between the end of the estuary and the beach. Hippos & Crocs right outside, monkey & mongeese running around, and very private campsites.

As I grew up in Cape Town, I would like to leave you with a few hot tips/reccomendations for essential Cape Town activities. These are not likely to be found in most guides books, but more somthing that locals might be found doing...

Table Mountain: The cablecar is a fantastic trip. However if you fancy something a bit more challenging, try this round-trip instead:
- Leave your car at Lower Cableway station, or wherever convenient
- Get to Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens (it's in Newlands)
   (get a lift or taxi if only 1 car)
- Walk up Skeleton Gorge (a hard slog, but shady) - good views!!
- Turn right at the top, following Smuts Track toward Maclears Beacon
- Then walk across the table top to the Cableway
- Take Cableway down & try find your car...
The route is well marked, but a basic map is a good idea.
Lions Head by Full Moon: This is my top tip!! The idea is to ascend Lions Head (45mins-1hr) approx 1 hr before sunset, watch sunset, then descend by moonlight (you'll not need a flashlight). If full moon falls on a weekend, expect hordes of people. Better to go 1 day before or after full. Don't worry - you still won't be alone - this is a very safe time to walk on the mountain. Also - take the chain route - it's far more fun!!

From the "saddle" between the City & Camps Bay, you can either go toward the Lower Cableway, or Signal Hill. Drive approx 1km toward Signal Hill. Look for parking under tall trees, near small wooden hut at bottom of the path.

End-of-Trip photo: Most people try this from the Cape of Good Hope. There is nowhere to get a nice shot with you and your car. Instead I reccommend that you get your photo from Blouberg beach, opposite the mountain. This is of course, weather permitting!!